Meat Loaf : Loaf Me Tender, Loaf Me Lean: A Cook's Guide (2024)

You can throw a bunch of meat and spice in a pan and call it meat loaf. But if you’re interested in making a good meat loaf, you should know there are all sorts of important variables. The kind of meat you use, the type of extender--even the mixing technique and baking time--make a difference.

The Meat:

Ground chuck or regular ground beef, which has 25% to 30% fat, produces a better meat loaf than extra-lean beef or ground sirloin, which contains 15% to 20% fat. The fat adds flavor and prevents dry and crumbly texture, which is especially a danger when a meat loaf has been overcooked. If you like the flavor of the more expensive lean meat, ask the butcher to grind some suet with it to bring up the fat level.

The most popular combination of meats is two parts beef to one part each veal and pork. Some markets sell this combination in their meat-loaf packages.

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You can add flavor and juiciness by lining the meat loaf pan or covering the top of the loaf (or wrapping it) with bacon slices, leaf lard or caul fat. If you find the smoky taste of bacon objectionable, blanch it first.

The Starch:

Bread crumbs are the most common extender in meat loaf, but the following are all good substitutes: oats, rice, saltine cracker crumbs, wheat germ.

These do more than simply make the meat go further. They absorb fat and soften the texture, and they bind wet or crumbly mixtures into a cohesive mass. Too much starch, however, will give a mushy texture and mask the meat flavor. For an average meat loaf, use 1/2 to 3/4 cup fresh, soft bread crumbs to every pound of meat. When using fine, dry crumbs, use half as much.

Other Ingredients:

Eggs bind the mixture, add flavor and increase browning, but too much egg will make a meat loaf tough and rubbery. Use about one egg per pound of meat. If using pork sausage, skip the egg.

Milk adds flavor and moisture and helps distribute the seasoning throughout the mass. Any of the following make good substitutes: sour cream, half and half, yogurt, creamed cottage cheese, tomato sauce, tomato juice, stewed tomatoes, catsup, barbecue sauce, spaghetti sauce, broth, white sauce.

Shredded, chopped or mashed vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, sweet potatoes, spinach or even apples contribute juiciness, color and interesting texture. Watch out for chopped raw onion, though, because it will “weep” and shrink while the loaf cooks, giving an undesirably crumbly texture. To avoid this, either mince the onion fine or fry it before adding to the mixture.

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Making Meat Loaf for

Sandwiches:

Meat loaf can be made firmer by adding more egg. For an even firmer, terrine-like consistency, place a heavy weight on the loaf during baking. When making the sandwiches, take the meatloaf slices out of the refrigerator in time to reach room temperature.

Mixing:

Combine all seasonings, binders and other ingredients before mixing into the ground meats. Dampen hands to prevent sticking. Then mix the ingredients thoroughly for uniform, even texture while handling as lightly as possible. Overkneading and pressing make a dense, tough loaf.

When checking the seasoning, do not taste the meat mixture raw. Cook a small amount in lightly greased skillet, cool slightly then taste. Or microwave 1 tablespoon mixture on HIGH 30 seconds to 1 minute.

The loaf may be placed in a loaf or casserole dish; it will look better if the top is rounded slightly. When making free-form, oval or round loaves, shape gently without pressing. To avoid cracks, which could result in the loss of juices, smooth with a wet spatula or the back of a spoon. Avoid piercing the loaf while cooking lest the juices run out.

Baking Time:

If using pork, by itself or in combination with other meats, cook the meat loaf well done: 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours at 350 degrees for a two-pound mixture. Turkey or chicken should also be cooked the maximum time.

Veal, lamb and beef, however, may be cooked just to the desired doneness. Remember that the leaner the meats, the faster they will cook.

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YANKS CAJUN

MEAT LOAF

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1/2 cup chopped green onions

1 cup finely diced red, green or yellow pepper

1 cup diced onions

1/4 cup diced celery

2 small jalapeno chiles

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 1/4 tablespoons hot pepper sauce

1 1/4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce