The Story Behind Thanksgiving's Most Polarizing Dish (2024)

Cranberry sauce is a Thanksgiving necessity, even when it comes straight out of the can.

By

Nina Friend

The Story Behind Thanksgiving's Most Polarizing Dish (1)

Nina Friend is a New York-based writer who covers food, drink, travel, lifestyle, and sports. Nina’s work has appeared in Vogue, Air Mail, Bon Appétit, Cherry Bombe, Food & Wine, The BBC, and NBC Sports, among others.

Updated on November 9, 2023

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The Story Behind Thanksgiving's Most Polarizing Dish (2)

What's red and jiggly with ridges all over? Canned cranberry sauce, otherwise known as a highly polarizing American holiday tradition that divides Thanksgiving into two camps: Team Homemade and Team Canned. Collectively, Americans consume five million gallons of cranberry sauce during the holidays each year. This side dish has become essential to Thanksgiving menus, whether you opt to buy it (as 76% of Americans do) or make it yourself.

It's hard to pinpoint exactly who invented the concept of cranberry sauce. Native Americans have been growing and eating the fruit, which is indigenous to North America, for centuries. An account from the American colonies in 1672 mentions the ways that both Native Americans and European settlers used cranberries, "boyling them with sugar for a sauce to eat with their meat." And one of cranberry's earliest documented appearances with turkey can be found in the 1796 cookbook American Cookery, where author Amelia Simmons suggests pairing roast turkey with cranberry sauce and boiled onions.

Canned cranberry sauce, on the other hand, has a clear point of origin: It was invented by a lawyer-turned-cranberry-grower named Marcus Urann in the early 20th century. Back then, cranberries were considered a seasonal fruit, available only between September and November. Urann's initial goal was to salvage damaged cranberries by puréeing the ones that were less-than-perfect, canning them, and selling the product year-round. With this innovation, Urann forever changed the cranberry life cycle — and the Thanksgiving table.

Urann started selling his canned cranberry sauce in 1912 under the name Ocean Spray Preserving Company. In 1930, he joined forces with two competitors, independent cranberry growers John Makepeace and Elizabeth Lee, to form a cranberry cooperative. The co-op began offering canned cranberry sauce nationwide in 1941. Over the years, the co-op rebranded, going from Cranberry Canners Inc. to the National Cranberry Association and ending up as Ocean Spray in 1957. Ocean Spray has advertised its cranberry sauce with catchy slogans, such as one from 1958 that said, "It's the natural mate for every meat."

Each year, Ocean Spray produces 70 million cans of cranberry sauce, using about 200 cranberries in each can. To this day, Ocean Spray's Jellied Cranberry Sauce remains its most popular product — far outselling fresh cranberries. Sorry, team homemade! But there is a middle ground, with these tips to upgrade canned cranberry sauce.

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The Story Behind Thanksgiving's Most Polarizing Dish (2024)

FAQs

What's the deal with cranberry sauce? ›

An account from the American colonies in 1672 mentions the ways that both Native Americans and European settlers used cranberries, "boyling them with sugar for a sauce to eat with their meat." And one of cranberry's earliest documented appearances with turkey can be found in the 1796 cookbook American Cookery, where ...

Why was cranberry sauce likely not served at the first Thanksgiving? ›

The Pilgrims might have been familiar with cranberries by the first Thanksgiving, but they wouldn't have made sauces and relishes with the tart orbs. That's because the sacks of sugar that traveled across the Atlantic on the Mayflower were nearly or fully depleted by November 1621.

How did cranberry sauce become a Thanksgiving tradition? ›

By the 1860s, cranberry sauce was so ingrained as an American dish, that General Ulysses S. Grant reportedly ordered that cranberries be served to soldiers as part of their Thanksgiving meal. Whichever cranberry recipe you end up eating on Thanksgiving, it just might be the most venerable dish on your menu.

Why is cranberry sauce served with turkey? ›

Turkey is often dry, salty, and bland, which makes it the perfect partner for something sweet and moist. Cranberries are not overly sweet. Their tartness pairs well with the more bland-tasting turkey.

What is the meaning of cranberry sauce? ›

Cranberry sauce or cranberry jam is a sauce or relish made out of cranberries, commonly served as a condiment or a side dish with Thanksgiving dinner in North America and Christmas dinner in the United Kingdom and Canada.

Is it OK to eat a can of cranberry sauce? ›

It's perfectly fine to serve up cranberry sauce — whole berry or jelled — straight out of the can. But in my experience, heating the canned sauce up takes its flavor to the next level. Plus, it becomes a little more aesthetically pleasing.

What does cranberry represent for Thanksgiving? ›

When someone mentions Thanksgiving dinner, the image that traditionally comes to mind includes turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, and cranberry sauce. As one of the very few commercially grown fruits native to the United States, the cranberry symbolically represents an American harvest on our holiday tables.

What was the actual first Thanksgiving meal? ›

But according to the two only remaining historical records of the first Thanksgiving menu, that meal consisted of freshly killed deer, assorted wildfowl, cod, bass, and flint, and a native variety of corn harvested by the Native Americans, which was eaten as corn bread and porridge.

What do cranberries have to do with Thanksgiving? ›

Cranberries can actually be found from the Polar Regions to the tropics, in both hemispheres. Due to the importance of cranberries in the 1500s and their abundance, it is believed that the pilgrims and the American Indians would have eaten them at the first Thanksgiving.

What can I use instead of cranberry sauce at Thanksgiving? ›

14 Homemade Condiments to Serve With Turkey—That Aren't Cranberry Sauce
  • 01 of 14. Gingered Golden Fruit Chutney. ...
  • 02 of 14. Tangerine and Lemon Marmalade. ...
  • 03 of 14. Quince Butter. ...
  • 04 of 14. Plum Ginger Relish. ...
  • 05 of 14. Quince Jelly With Star Anise. ...
  • 06 of 14. Warm Plum Sauce. ...
  • 07 of 14. Quick Pear Chutney. ...
  • 08 of 14. Bacon Jam.
Oct 24, 2023

What is America's favorite Thanksgiving side dish? ›

What is America's favorite Thanksgiving side? Mashed potatoes took home the top spot for this year's favorite side. The top five most popular holiday side dishes include: Mashed potatoes.

Why do we eat turkey on Thanksgiving? ›

Thanksgiving-type celebrations were common at the turn of the 19th century with many opting to put a turkey on the table instead of slaughtering a useful animal like a hen or cow that was producing other needed products, according to Britannica. Turkeys at the time, and still today, were raised to be meat birds.

Which state eats the most turkey on Thanksgiving? ›

Of all the states, residents of California consume the most turkey per person, but California is not one of the five. Missouri is. It's number five. The top turkey producing state is Minnesota, followed by North Carolina, Arkansas and Virginia.

How many turkeys are eaten on Thanksgiving? ›

An estimated 46 million turkeys are eaten each year as part of Thanksgiving meals, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Why do people like canned cranberry sauce? ›

I love the texture, shape, ridges, and dependability of the cranberry sauce that comes from a can. Each year, no matter what happens or may go wrong, I know the cranberry sauce will taste exactly as it has for as long as I can remember.

Why do we eat cranberry sauce at Christmas? ›

Why Do We Serve Cranberry Sauce at Christmas? Following in the footsteps of America, we traditionally add cranberry sauce to our plates at Christmas to add a sweet and tangy taste to our turkey.

When did cranberry sauce become popular? ›

“Before canning technology, the product had to be consumed immediately and the rest of the year there was almost no market.” Then suddenly, there was. The jellied log became available nationwide in 1941. Thanksgiving history was forever changed.

Why is cranberry sauce so expensive? ›

But that's not the case for prepared cranberry sauces, where prices are up. Lochner pointed out that processors set those prices, not growers, and that there are higher input costs unrelated to berries — like “processing the fruit and getting it to market.”

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