‘Little England’ Nuwara Eliya is Sri Lanka’s Europe and ‘Land of English Vegetables’. Apart from being famous for tea plantations and a wonderfully cool ‘European’ climate, the countryside boasts of terraces of bountiful veggies such as leeks, carrots, potatoes, cabbages, beet, salad leaves, onions, and what-not. In 1828 when Ceylon was under the Colonial rule, Britishers introduced these ‘English vegetables’ in Nuwara Eliya for their consumption. Till date, it is said that the vegetables grown in Nuwara Eliya have a notably better taste.
It is only fitting then that we feast on Sri Lanka’s superlative, vegetable-riddled beloved street dish of Kothu Roti in Nuwara Eliya.
Origins of Kothu
Kothu Roti, which translates to ‘chopped roti’ in Tamil, is made of gothamba roti (Sri Lankan flatbread made of wheat flour), spices, lots of vegetables and egg/meat. It is difficult to pinpoint the origins of this dish, although most sources claim that Kothu originated in the eastern Tamil regions of Trincomalee or Batticaloa in the 1970s. Gradually, it was also adopted by the Sinhalese, ironically making this dish something common that both communities came to love.
Kothu preparation
After a freezing evening walk, my husband and I walk back to our hotel on Grand Hotel Road when a unique, rhythmic clanging reaches our ears. They’re coming from the Restaurant Two, a unique mobile restaurant which I highly recommend if you’re in Nuwara Eliya. Their menu boasts of flavourful food, among which one item is the famed Kothu Roti, something I’ve wanted to try since I set foot in the country.
We place our order – Vegetarian Kothu – and watch the chef in utter fascination. The iron tawa is already hot, and the neatly-cut roti pieces are ready next to him. He pours oil, mustard seeds, curry leaves and green chillies in quick succession, and then deftly drops chopped red-purple onions, capsicum, tomatoes, leeks, cabbage, garlic, and ginger, mixing them with a variety of spices such as chilli powder, curry powder, and coriander leaves to infuse freshness. The aroma that emanates from the mixture is unbelievably rich and tangy. Finally, he adds the roti pieces and expertly mixes them all and the Kothu, in its final form, begins to take shape.
The actual mixing of all ingredients is done using two huge metal cleavers with blunt blades and wooden handles which, when whacked on the griddle, produces the clanging sound. What could be an almighty din turns into a catchy rhythm which draws tourists, winning them over as customers.
As the chef serves us a huge portion of Kothu, we dig in with gusto. What’s surprising is that the quantities of roti, eggs, and veggies couldn’t be eaten by me separately. That is what makes the Kothu so singular – it’s the frantic chopping, mixing and hacking which makes the dish so well-balanced. By the time we’re wolfing down the last portions, it is clear neither of us has space in our tummies for dinner.
Kothu today
Today, Kothu is also made using beef, goat and chicken, and even cheese. Kothu is a versatile dish – it is a hangover-killer, a hunger-buster, and works wonderfully for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. What initially was common street food for the lower and middle class earlier has traversed social barriers and is an important piece of the social and ethnic mosaic that Lanka is today. Don’t leave Sri Lanka without trying the Kothu – which will leave you with a fuzzy feeling of warmth and fullness, especially on a cool, wintry evening.
Are you thinking about making Kothu now? It’s easy! See here.
Credits
The Culture Trip – Why Kottu Roti is Sri Lanka’s Favourite Street Food?
Indian Express, Lifestyle – From the streets of Sri Lanka to Indian kitchens: How to make the perfect KothuRoti.
